ZUHAIR MURAD Autumn-Winter 2013-2014 Couture Show

"The Enchanted Forest" Like a Winter’s night dream, this Clair-obscure collection is filled with an enchanted echo. The dream of a girl transported to an icy forest. Her embroidered dress reflects the shining moon rays, barren branches cling onto the draping and the shadows of tree clusters imprint the silk. From an iridescent fabric, sunburst pleats worthy of Mme Grès, lace tattooed onto the skin, emanates a rich and sensitive dream-like spirit. Yet, the imagination of Zuhair Murad is also aware of reality, the sensuality of women. Here, officer collars embrace fragile necks, long sleeves in transparent lace blend in with the flesh, Chantilly lace merges with tulle, silk chiffon undulates in skittles at the bottom of a siren dress, satin crepe inlaid with lingerie reveals the back with voluptuousness. The organic geometry of hand-embroidered trees or prints similar to black and white snapshots mingle with Art Deco lines, showcasing rigor and refinement. Persian green, electric blue, or wine red lamés give the cue to foggy nuances. Behind the turmoil and the chimera, the Couturier dictates the precision of a bustier created with an accordion pleating while interminable lengths of georgette crepe are worked into a remarkable sunburst pleat. A cape in ostrich feathers, an asymmetrical dress with an incisive sleeve cut in devoré velvet, a jumpsuit inlaid with black floral lace, all set the tone for this couture show, marvelously positioned between dream and reality.